Stepping Stones.

Between March 17 and April 14, 1942, about 28,000 Jewish children, women and men were deported from Lublin to the Bełżec death camp, while a further 2,000 were simply murdered on the spot.

In just one month, this beautiful city lost 1/3 of its inhabitants and irretrievably lost its historical multicultural dimensions.

One anonymous account(*) from that time describes the terror of these deportations:

"Quite unexpectedly at 12 o'clock in the night lights were lit in the Jewish district while SD and Ukrainians circled ulica Lubartowska. The population assumed it was just an ordinary roundup to Majdanek. However, it turned out to be a deportation action. They knocked on the gates and told people to be prepared for displacement – (...) the assembly point was to be the synagogue. 1,600 people were taken that night. There were victims – they usually killed the old, but they did not spare the young either. (...)

In the first days the displacements only took place at night, during the day there was complete peace. Jewish police were also involved in the deportation. And so, 1,600 people were systematically displaced every night. After seven days there was a three-day break, after which they were being displaced day and night. Everyone trying to get out was killed on the spot."

The Lublin Memorial Trail is a series of 21 stones that plot the route taken by the city's Jews as they were forceable deported from their homes to the waiting trains behind a slaughterhouse in the industrial sector of the city.

Whilst visiting the area I took the opportunity to visit Lublin and walk the stones. It was a bitterly cold November afternoon and, after deciding to photograph each stone, I realised they were all the same!

So, I have also added some context and perspective on the route by showing the stones in situ, as they stand today, often forlorn and untended.

Let's stroll together.

Stone: 01
Location: Tysiąclecia
Time: 11:40

In the shadow of the Palace. Clouds race across the darkening sky. A hive of activity. People in a rush, wrapped up against the cold. Movement, intention and direction.

Stone: 02
Location: Cerkiewna
Time: 11:52

Potholes splashed by filthy mini-buses. Hot dog stalls, old clothes and Chinese imports. Hushed conversation and hidden eyes.

Stone: 03
Location: Podzamcze
Time: 12:08

A sudden sense of calm. The smell of Autumn. People shuffle by carrying bags of shopping. A tram rattles.

Stone: 04
Location: Singera
Time: 12:16

Hidden behind abandoned fortifications. Crumbling steps and broken bottles. The woman leaving the salon with sensational new hair.

Stone: 05
Location: Kalinowszczyzna
Time: 12:30

Heading East. Naked bushes contract in the cold. The route truly beckons now. A shiver and a cigarette.

Stone: 06
Location: Kalinowszczyzna
Time: 12:45

Nestled in a corner. The Jewish Cemetery lies unkempt and abandoned behind bars. The serene war memorial takes pride of place here.

Stone: 07
Location: Białkowska Góra
Time: 13:10

First signs of industry. Plaster reveals a past of hastily built walls climbed by skinny trees and adorned with graffiti.

Stone: 08
Location: Tatarska
Time: 13:22

Fresh honey from the farm. Kebabs. Burgers and pharmacies. A momentary loss of direction. A crossroads for me. But what about then?

Stone: 09
Location: Towarowa
Time: 13:42

Old houses stand to attention. A lone man cuts the corner and traces the muddy path across the park. Pink Adidas backpack. Beanie pulled down.

Stone: 10
Location: Kalinowszczyzna
Time: 14:04

The woman on the bench. She looks dismayed as she concentrates on rolling her cigarette. Leather jacket open and jewellery pouring out. She looks sad, in a contented way.

Stone: 11
Location: Kalinowszczyzna
Time: 14:10

Empty bottles of vodka. A young boy looks in the bins. Mum stands by nervously. A car horn. Empty bus. Glances, that's all.

Stone: 12
Location: Kalinowszczyzna
Time: 14:14

The road ripples. Dull thudding sounds from the pedestrian crossing. The car that didn't stop. Eyes shielded against the wind, looking both ways.

Stone: 13
Location: Kalinowszczyzna
Time: 14:20

The empty bill board stands guard by the gated community. Wires spill from a telecoms box. The engineer scratches his head, looks down. I think he's picturing his dinner later.

Stone: 14
Location: Bystrzyca
Time: 14:34

Intersection. A river beckons. People curate a criss-cross of paths across the exposed ground. It's cold here. The wind.

Stone: 15
Location: Bystrzyca
Time: 14:39

The underpass buries itself under the highway. I'm glad I'm not driving. That way to Warsaw, oh, and I see the queues to cross into Ukraine are now up to a week long now. Rather them than me. There's a war going on over there. Right now.

Stone: 16
Location: Turystyczna
Time: 14:52

Water rushes from the pipes under the road. Heading for the river. Two men stand huddled together sharing a can of beer. Why do they drink in the cold?

Stone: 17
Location: Turystyczna
Time: 15:02

The lady at the bus stop. Watching me suspiciously. Refuses to connect to my glances. Busy on her phone, but eyes always on me. I wonder where she is going? Where has she been? What is her name?

Stone: 18
Location: Turystyczna
Time: 15:30

For sale. Paint on the stone. I'm getting close to the end, now. The light is fading fast. People are going home. Cars rumble past. Do they ever think of this trail? should they?

Stone: 19
Location: Turystyczna
Time: 15:45

Shoppers leaving InterMarche. Children run around high on plastic sweets. The ownerless dog accepts an ear rub, turns and saunters across the road.

Stone: 20
Location: Turystyczna
Time: 15:52

A bus turning circle. But the bus isn't turning. The drivers are changing shift, urgently whispering to one another. Just one passenger. She looks bored. She'll be home soon.

Stone: 21
Location: Turystyczna / Zimna
Time: 16:07

Diggers collapse industrial walls. The slaughterhouse - this is the end of the trail. There used to be a train line here. Somewhere near here. And people were brought here - a day trip to their own deaths.

From this single city, in less than one month. 28,000 people have walked with me to this place. The rusting signs on the wall remind me that this is a drop in the ocean. As far as my eyes can see I am reminded.

To Bełżec, to Sobibór, to Treblinka.

Day after day, after day. Countless hundreds of thousands.

And here?

The trees have retaken their place by the loading ramps. Sheets of plastic blow in the wind and water trickles through the holes in the memorial ceiling.

I stop and look upon the scene in front of me.

And just for a moment, I'm sure it looks back.

(*) Anonymous account. Ringelblum Archive, Warsaw.