Articulate_Gdansk

My first trip to Poland after several years of incapacitating addiction. Symbolic, in that regard, and poignant.

A full days walk from the suburban hills above the city to the heart of the iconic shipyards. Echos of the past, subtle observations and brief reflections.

With some cheeky animations thrown in because: why not?

08:00

Stung by the Baltic winds.

Few places articulate their place in history as much as Gdańsk. Immaculate dilapidation, faded splendour and a rugged, irresistible charm. Images captured on an iPhone, clasped between frozen fingers.

Hokejowa 09:40

Another clear, bright and dry February day.

The trees cast dancing shadows on the stark concrete walls of the apartment block. There's a vague taste of salt in the air. A thin layer of sand gathers on my coat. The cold penetrates like a knife. I pull my hat down over my ears. It's time to head off.

Ojcowska 10:18

Alighting the tram at Ojcowska.

The locals call this "SS Street". Constructed during the war for SS officers, it curves a deliberate double-bend down the hillside overlooking the city. Wind-battered houses stand to attention awkwardly as I walk past. A real sense of history. No birds singing here.

Popiełuszki 11:32

Emerging from the de-saturated gardens.

The cranes of the shipywards beckon. Corossing the rail tracks at Popiełuszki, the wind tugs at my legs. Tears pool in the corner of my eyes. A lady with three children. A lone dog looks on. Traffic noise grows louder. Welcome to old Gdańsk.

Doki 12:56

Tired memorials. Flags for sale.

Dusty gas masks. Faded cafe exteriors and peeling paint. Abandonment. Sadness and melancholy are compounded by the lack of people. The yellow paint on the windows is the only splash of colour in this grey place.

Robotnicza 13:16

Decaying warehouses loom large.

Once home to the German U-Boat fleet. Towering doors bolted. A hidden community. Children playing as mothers look on. This single block is a haven of life. The shadow of heavy industry hangs over me as I sit. Coffee in hand. Map crumpled. Wind blown.

Jana z Kolna 13:40

Mysterious old tenements.

Furtive glances. Enticing alleyways. Faded ochre doors leading to darkened corners. Steps worn from a thousand shoes. Lost in the maze. Enthralled, proud, eager and alive.

Rybaki Górne 14:52

Deeper into the dilapidated shipyards.

Old electrical installations. Severed cables. Mysterious signs. Broken letters. The background hum of welding provides a glimpse into the past. Grass growing from the walls. Grafitti. Another lost empire.

Podstoczna 15:02

Aching feet on cobbles.

Hands buried in coat pockets. Cheeks flushed. An old boat, high and dry. Broken glass. A bird sings in the rafters of a cavernous hall. The rattle of boat rigging. The taste of the ocean mixed with the smells of oil and gasoline.

Lisia Grobia 15:28

An elderly couple. Wrapped up in scarves.

They wave and pass the time of day. I wonder about their memories of this place. This city. Their faces etched with the lines of history. Of trauma and toil. What have they seen? What stories do they tell?

Walowa 15:40

Taking shelter from a snow flurry.

Tiny particles of ice like pinpricks to my face. The cold, damp smell of the room. Rusty machinery. Idle. An orchestra of sounds - whirring, banging, crashing. Sparks light up the dim interior.
A mirage? Maybe.

Stara Stocznia 16:10

The War Museum.

Rising like a phoenix. Angular. Sharp. Confident. Dissecting lines converge. A howling wind whistles around corners sucking the breath from my lungs. A visceral symbol. Confident, bold and assumptive. Past made future.

Muzeum 17:28

Standing on the rooftop.

A myriad of reflections. Looking into the bowels of the building through glass walls. And the people. Scurrying like mice far below. The inviting aroma of coffee. The seduction of hot food. Tired legs and a full heart.

Time to rest.
Time to reflect.
Time to articulate

Articulate_Gdańsk